The area known as The Badlands conjures up different ideas for different people. For me every time I enter the park I think of my grandma telling me about how cowboys and fur traders used to get lost in there and never come out. For others it brings up images of The Ghost Dance and for others fossil hunting and an ancient world.
From the entrance of the park you notice that the terrain is a little different than anything you have seen before, and after only two minutes of driving from the entrance it feels as though you are on an alien world. Large spires of rock that look like castles surround you on all sides and the land seems to be a series of canyons and spikes that stretches on forever. I can think of no other way to describe it than as the very teeth of the mouth of the Earth.
This terrain was formed in levels over time, first by a shallow sea that once covered the entire region, then by bombardment of volcanic ash, and then erosion by the winds and rain. Driving along the Badlands loop one will see some of the most breath taking natural imagery the world has to offer. If you are lucky enough to get there just after it rains, the color bands that were formed by different layers of sediment deposits stand out with brilliant shades of red, pink, brown, grey, red and yellow, and it looks as if the rocks were actually painted.
Another special sight in the park is all of the wild life. I have been through the Badlands many times now, and when I went last week I saw buffalo in the park for the first time which really brightened my day, but the park is also home to mule deer, white tale deer, prong horn antelope, big horn sheep, prairie dogs, coyote, turkey and wild birds. You never know just what you are going to see at any time, but it is always a treat.
As you can imagine the Badlands is absolutely rich in fossils. In 1849 there was a “bone rush” which brought hundreds of paleontologists to the area and produced over 77 distinctly different species of fossils by 1854 and the fossils are still a huge draw. Upon entering the park visitors are given a stern warning not to remove any fossils from the park because of how significant they can be to science. Visitors are welcomed to walk the Fossil Exhibit Trail.
The Badlands also offers a lot of great trails for hiking and biking as well as horse back riding and camping. Just make sure you have plenty of hydration with you as the park can be rather dry during summer months and extremely hot. If history is more your thing there is plenty to find here. From the Native American tribes hat lived and hunted on these grounds, to the homesteaders that ranched there, to the Minute Man Missile Silo, there are plenty of things to be learned.
I always enjoy my trips through the Badlands, and for all the more it costs for a car load it makes for a great day with your family or friends.
When I first arrived in Rapid City on vacation I was picked up at the air port and was taken to Custer State Park. I had no idea what to expect, I have been to more than my share of state and national parks and every one has been different.
As we actually entered the park I was rendered breathless by how scenic it was. Rolling terrain and lush green grass set against a clear blue sky. Then as we got a little further into the park we came upon the free roaming buffalo herd. I had never seen a buffalo up close before. I knew they were big, but I had never realized just how big. The thing that was so amazing though wasn’t just the size of the individual buffalo, but the size of the herd. They were everywhere I looked. Walking at a leisurely pace realizing that they had nothing to fear from us since they were much bigger than any car in the park the lumbered beside the vehicles doing whatever it is that buffalo do. It was a little nerve wracking for some one like myself who never experienced it before to have the buffalo so close to the car that it rocked back and forth. I guess the sign that state “Buffalo are dangerous, do not approach.” Is more than just a marketing ploy.
We continued to drive through the park and as I kept my eyes open for more buffalo I kept spotting mule deer and pronghorn antelope. I couldn’t get over just how many there were. It was wonderful to see. The pronghorn antelope were especially interesting to me. In all of my previous experience most wildlife fears human presence and runs away, yet these guys didn’t flinch. They didn’t excitedly run up to me to see what I was all about, but they didn’t run away. As with any wildlife I chose to view them from a distance, but I got out of the car and watched them graze. Not even the sound of the door slamming got a response out of them. Eventually they walked up in front of the car, crossed the road and went on with their day.
I got back in the car and we continued to drive. Along the way I got to see some of Custer State Park’s other residents. There was a large flock of turkeys that wanted to cross the road, and of course since it was their home we gave them the right of way. After the crossing I also got to see and hear a prairie dog town. I had always just assumed a prairie dog was just a ground hog. I was mistaken. Prairie dogs are not only cute little things, they chirp a lot and seem to almost have a personality. The way they stand up on their little hind legs and keep watch, and then duck down their holes at the first sign of danger makes them fun to watch.
After a few more minutes of driving we came around a corner and I saw one of Custer’s most famous points of interest, the feral burro herd. The burros aren’t indigenous to the area, but were introduced in the 1920’s by an entrepreneur who used them to carry tourists up Mt. Harney. When his venture failed in the 1930’s, he let the burros loose. Currently there are two small herds, about 15-20 burros in each. The burros are probably some of the friendliest critters I have ever met. They have no problem in walking right up to your vehicle, poking their head in and looking for goodies. I was surprised by the fact that many parents were letting their children get out and pet them, and the burros didn’t care and seemed to rather enjoy it. As with all wildlife one should still be cautious when approaching them, and park policy is that tourists should not feed them, however it isn’t uncommon to see people arrive with a wide variety of veggies to offer them.
Two years later when I returned to Rapid City to live here permanently, the first place I wanted to go was Custer State Park. I made myself a promise that now that I lived here I was going to explore every inch of the 71,000 acres that make up Custer State Park that I possibly could. I also wanted to make sure that I got to see all of the animals that call Custer home, pronghorn antelope, mountain goats, bighorn sheep, deer, elk, wild turkeys, mountain lions and a band of friendly burros. So far all I have left to see is a mountain lion. On one really cool trip I even got to see day old baby antelope.
While the animals and landscape are both great aspects of the park, it also has a lot more to offer. If out door activities are your thing then perhaps you might be interested in hiking the 7,242 foot Harney Peak, mountain biking, rock climbing fishing, or my favorite horseback riding. Or if you want to see the animals but don’t want to have to drive yourself, you can take one of the jeep tours.
If you’re hungry, why not stop and fill your belly with a chuck wagon supper offered right in the park, and from there, you can look into some of the other great activities in the park depending on the time of year. Monday night guest speaker series, guided snow shoe hikes, and gold panning demonstrations are all available.
Custer State Park also offers culture and history as well. From the banks of French Creek, where Custer’s expedition first discovered gold in 1874 to performances at the Black Hills Playhouse, to a visit to Badger Clark’s log cabin, there are plenty of things to spark your imagination. Living-history demonstrations, such as candle making and woodworking, take place at the Gordon Stockade. Evening campfire programs feature slide shows, outdoor-cooking demonstrations and films. For the kids, the Junior Naturalist Program teaches them about the outdoors through hands-on activities.
If you don’t get to explore the entire park in one day, don’t worry, there are plenty of campgrounds, or you can stay at one of the lodges. The State Game Lodge is known as the as the “Summer White House” for President Calvin Coolidge in 1927 and was visited by President Dwight D. Eisenhower for several days in 1953. Sylvan Lake Lodge was suggested by Frank Lloyd Wright and offers one of the most scenic views in the park. Blue Bell Lodge offers guests the “true western experience”. You can trail ride, or take a guided all day ride. You can take a haywagon ride to a scenic canyon for a chuckwagon supper, or you can have a buffalo steak in the Blue Bell dining room. Legion Lake Lodge offers access to some great fishing, and if you don’t have a license or equipment, don’t worry. You can get everything you need at the Legion Lake Lodge Store.
The park boasts scenic drives such as the Needles Highway (SD 87), which twists and turns its way past towering rock formations and through narrow tunnels. At the end of one tunnel stands the Needles Eye, a granite spire with a slit only 3 to 4 feet wide but reaching 30 to 40 feet in the air.
Another of the park’s big attractions is the annual buffalo round-up, chili cook-off and art show in October. I will be sharing my experiences there in another blog if that is something that catches your interest.
Entry in to the park is only $12 per vehicle and the pass is good for a week, or if you live close enough and want to visit anytime you like you can purchase an annual pass for $23
The park is great for people adventuring on their own, couples and families alike. I have never taken anyone into the park that wasn’t smiling when they left, and they always want to go back. I would definitely recommend checking it out. Until next time, this is the local tourist saying…Discover More.
If you love hiking and being out doors, then you already know the rewards of hiking go far beyond just the health benefits of the exercise. It is the scenery around you and the feeling of accomplishment at the end of your hike. Or maybe you are the type of person that likes to go on vacation and discover something not many people before you have seen. Well if you are vacationing in Rapid City then I suggest you visit the Boulder Hill Fire Tower.
Boulder Hill is a large rock formation just outside of Rapid City and up until it was destroyed, a forest fire lookout tower sat atop it. The hike up to the base of the rock formation is a little over a half mile and winds you through the woods surrounding it. During the spring and summer many different types of wild flowers can be found here.
Once you get to the base of the formation it offers you two different ways to the top. If you came with climbing gear and are looking for a vertical accent you can climb the sheer face of the rock. There are plenty of holds but the height of the rock should provide a challenge to even the most experienced climber. If you are looking for a little easier way up you can go up the other side. I have gone up this way multiple times, and while I wouldn’t recommend trying to do it in flip flops, it is rather safe. There will be times you do have to “climb” but there is a fairly easy path up.
The real treat is at the top though. No, it isn’t the foundation of the tower that once stood there. It is the panoramic view of Rapid City and the surrounding areas. Not only can you see the city itself but in the distance you can see Mount Rushmore and with the help of binoculars you can peer clear out in to the Badlands.
Though there is evidence that a few people have climbed this formation, there isn’t a lot. You truly feel that it is quite possible that you are the first person at its apex, and it is safe to say most other tourists have never stood where you are. Heck, most people that live in town here have never heard of it.
Another great thing about the climb is that it is free. My wife and I live on the same income as most of the rest of Americans ages 20 – 30, so anything free is worth trying, but even if there were a charge I would pay it. The view is gorgeous, the hike is exhilarating and it gives us the chance to spend the day together doing something fun.
To reach Boulder Hill Fire Tower travel approximately 12 miles west on Highway 385 to Silver Mountain Road. Turn right and travel 100 feet to Boulder Hill Road. Turn left and travel approximately one mile to park, or take Sheridan Lake Road past Red Rocks, eventually Boulder Hill Road will be on your left. Follow it up to the start of the path to the formation.
I hope you all enjoy the hike and the climb as much as I have, it truly is one of my favorite places to visit, and if you’re lucky you may even see a bald eagle in flight.
